French Markets
By Sara Mykietyn

Markets in France are, above all else, an experience. Being quintessentially French, markets provide tourists with a perfect avenue to temporarily step into the regional culture. For locals, they are an irreplaceable aspect of daily life. Markets are as ubiquitous in France as grocery stores in the United States. They exist everywhere, from the Parisian metropolis to the middle-of-nowhere country village of Neufchâteau. The emphasis is always on local products sold directly by local artisans. Charles De Gaulle once said, "Comment voulez-vous gouverner un pays qui a deux cents quarante-six variétés de fromage?" (trans. "How can anyone govern a nation that has more than 246 types of cheese?") You will indeed find this vast variety of cheese at French markets, each region proudly boasting its own type. The cheese will be labeled as "Fabriqué en Normandie (Made in Normandy), for example. Adding France to the tag is entirely unnecessary; its French origin is simply understood. In France, markets are often outside. They engulf narrow streets, right along shop entrances. If you stroll down the same street on a day when the market is not open, you will feel an eerie sense of emptiness. Markets animate the city. The sweet aromas of fresh fruit and the bustling sounds of shoppers and vendors fill even the quietest corner of town, drawing you in. The arrangement of produce is also enticing. Even your basic orange looks more attractive at a French market. The carefully piled fruit appears more appetizing and juicy. The array of vibrant colors grabs your attention, making you want to buy everything in sight.

Since markets sell local products, they allow tourists to experience the regional flavor. In Lorraine, for instance, markets flourish with products made from the mirabelle, a plum grown only in this corner of eastern France. Down south in Marseille, markets are an ethnic bouillabaisse. They represent the culture of the northern African immigrant community living in this city. You will find a colorful and fragrant assortment of exotic spices and herbs. These ingredients are unlikely to be found in a grocery store. Thus, the immigrants depend on these markets to remind them of home.

One characteristic of French markets, perhaps foreign to tourists, is the way you purchase goods. First, do not forget your wicker basket to carry your groceries. Neither brown paper bags nor plastic bags will be provided and you will want to buy plenty. Also, always remember to say "Bonjour Monsieur or Madame" (Hello Sir or Ma’am) to the vendor with a wide smile. Friendliness counts. For the inquisitive tourist, markets are a perfect place to directly interact with the locals. You can buy as much or as little as you would like. Take, for example, the cinnamon sticks in Aix-en-Provence.The buyer can ask for 50 grams or five sticks. When purchasing fruits or vegetables, the same rule holds true. You can buy just the right sized clump of grapes or the exact width of a pumpkin wedge that you need. Regardless of what you are purchasing, wait your turn. French queues are informal by American standards. Thus, pay attention to who arrived before you. Unless clearly invited to do so, selecting the products yourself is not usually welcomed. Instead, tell the vendor what you would like and in what quantity. He will choose the best produce for you. You can even tell him what you are planning to cook and when with those tomatoes. He will select the proper ripeness. If you are lucky, he may also reveal his preparation techniques. When paying, it’s best to carry small bills and coins with you. Prices are not high and the vendors appreciate not having to break large bills for one apple. The proper closing to this interaction is a "Merci, Monsieur or Madame. Au revoir" or "Merci, bon week-end." Of course, do not forget a warm smile.

While markets may be a stop on a tourist’s itinerary, they are most certainly not touristic. It is at these markets where many local French families do their basic grocery shopping for the week. In addition to exotic goods not found in grocery stores, markets also sell basic ingredients. It is not uncommon for the French to visit a variety of markets several times a week. The freshness of ingredients is essential in their cuisine. Being repeat customers, they establish connections with the vendors. If you listen carefully, you will hear vendors greet people by their first names. Handshakes and bisous are commonplace. Markets are a place to greet friends and catch up on local town happenings.

From the basics to the exotic, markets will not disappoint. The emphasis on local goods is at their heart, representing the country’s overall resistance to commercialization. Markets retain an old-world feel. Maneuvering through the narrow space of friendly merchants transports you back in time. So, come. Come to a French market. Come see the vibrant colors. Come smell the appetizing aromas. Come hear the bustling sounds all around you.

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